Founded in 2007, Nikicio is one of the most prominent fashion labels in Indonesia. Consisting of four main lines — Mixte, Femme, Homme and NN:02 — it became popular several years back among young fashion followers, male and female alike.
On Friday, Nikicio Mixte’s collection for autumn/winter 2012 was showcased at W_Space in Kemang, South Jakarta. Mixte is the house’s main ready-to-wear line and heavily influenced by its creative director Nina Karina Nikicio’s aesthetics.
As the designer, she said, “I want to challenge the notion of fashion world. [There will be no trends nor fads.] My clothes have to be able to be worn and last forever.”
The big theme that underlies the collection for this season is “War.”
“I always see myself as being in a war with my own self and with my surrounding, especially with various new things that are happening in my life right now,” Nina said. “It is about struggling with the constant change that one faces in life.”
After playing with the notion of androgyny for several previous collections, Nina decided to start with a clean slate and get in touch with more feminine aspects for this collection.
The inspiration for this season’s collection comes from the photographs she saw when designing. “I’m also inspired by ocean waves, which is why I include it as a print in this collection.”
As it turns out, the print used on the clothes originates from Jakarta-based photographer Evelyn Pritt’s monochromatic work, entitled “Ocean Waves #0.” Pritt was Nikicio’s collaborator on several earlier occasions as well.
As the music directed by Armand Dhino started playing in the background, the first model — holding a rose — appeared on the runway, wearing a sharp ensemble of a white leather jacket with studded shorts.
“Most of the materials I use for this collection consist of silk. I also utilize printed leather,” Nina said.
Save for the prints, the color palette throughout the show was neutral, including white, black and metallic.
Pantsuits, a major trend this season, reign supreme in Nina’s new collection. Done in white, black and plaid, they can easily translate into a new form of work-wear by their wearers. But this being Indonesia, where the weather is sometimes unforgivingly hot, mini-shorts are incorporated in several looks as well.
Meanwhile, a chunky cotton sweater with ribbed poufy sleeves paired with straight tailored pants — both in white — are a study in the balance between casual and polished looks.
As mentioned before, the signature print for this collection is inspired by ocean waves and applied on various garments, from leather jackets to short dresses. In hindsight, this print looks like reinvented camouflage, befitting, one might argue, a futuristic female warrior.
Amid the throngs of directional jackets and pants, there are also some evening gems, including a long black dress-shirt with thigh-high slit and ornate detailing on the sleeves. Cinched with a belt, it radiates somber elegance.
Several asymmetrical tops and dresses also make their way into the collection, although they look a tad inconsistent in the company of other ensembles, which have stronger silhouettes.
The clothes from this collection will be sold at various boutiques, including The Goods Dept., as well as Nikicio’s own online store. Nina also decided to try something new — that is, selling the collection at the venue right after they were shown on the runway.
“People like everything to be instantaneous these days, especially Indonesians. When they see my clothes on the runway, they are like, ‘I want to buy everything now!’ ” Nina said.
“So I decided to sell the clothes after the show, and apparently it works.”
This latest Nikicio Mixte show seemed to be quite a success, what with the fashionable crowd filling every space available during the show.
Nina has clearly won the hearts and minds of her fans through this collection.
For more information, visit www.nikicio.com