Lisa Siregar

During Ramadan, visitors flock to Southeast Asia’s largest mosque. (JG Photo)

Jakarta Mosque Provides a Sanctuary for Reflection

Under a huge, metal dome, Muslims are praying inside Jakarta’s breeze-filled Istiqlal Mosque, sheltered from the blazing sun. Birds chirp and fly around three golden metal structures of Arabic calligraphy that hang from the front wall. One says “Allah,” the second “ syahadat” (a confession of faith), and the third “Muhammad.”

Men in sarongs and women in mukena (prayer clothes) gather around the mosque’s 12 giant pillars, creating a colorful tableau. Some fill the front rows; others lie around, enjoying the peaceful surroundings. Green wooden boxes are placed in the corners for donations.

I pick a quiet spot where there are not too many worshippers, place my bag next to a woman in a white mukena and start to put on my own prayer clothes. Once we are dressed alike, people won’t be able to recognize us from behind. I start to pray and the woman continues reading out verses from the holy book in melodious tones.

After I finish my prayers, I look around. A lot has changed since the last time I was here many years ago and I suddenly feel slightly self-conscious — a feeling I often get upon entering a place of worship. I try to be as quiet as possible because I don’t want to disturb anyone around me.

The largest mosque in Southeast Asia since it opened to the public in 1978, Istiqlal is the center of Islamic activity in Jakarta, especially during Idul Fitri and Idul Adha, which mark the biggest festival days for Muslims. The first is to mark the end of the fasting month and the latter is the culmination of the annual pilgrimage to Mecca and the commemoration of Abraham’s sacrifice.

Traditionally, the country’s president conducts prayers at Istiqlal during Ramadan, and national TV channels broadcast the prayer session live.

Each pillar is equipped with a rack of Korans and a plasma television, a sign of modern times in the holy place. A digital clock is installed at the front, next to the balcony where the imam, or mosque leader, delivers the spiritual speech.

Two girls lying about two meters away from me are softly talking to each other, and one points upward. My gaze follows — the ceiling is reddish-yellow and is covered in calligraphy of the holy verses. A sound system hangs from the center of the dome down to about a meter above the ground.

Istiqlal Mosque opens all nine of its doors during the big festive days and welcomes about 150,000 worshippers. The yards, which are commonly used for prayers in the morning, are also used by another 50,000 people.

“During the holy month [Ramadan], we start work at 9. a.m. and finish at 10 p.m., right after tarawih [evening fasting month prayers],” says Subandi, general secretary of the mosque’s board.

On regular days, they open from 4 a.m. until 10 p.m., and see only about 500 visitors a day. This number spikes dramatically during Ramadan, especially at the start of the fasting month. The mosque also provides free breaking of the fast snacks for 2,500 to 3,000 people. They also conduct a series of tarawih prayers every night to a congregation of about 15,000.

The mosque opens at nighttime to allow Muslims to perform i’tikaf , which involves staying overnight to pray and get closer to God. “We also provide a space for those who come from outside Jakarta and want to do i’tikaf,” Subandi says.

However, in order to keep the area clean for prayer sessions, congregants are not allowed to sleep in the mosque. Sleeping quarters are established on the ground floor during the fasting month as a place for visitors from outside Jakarta who want to stay overnight. Subandi says there are currently about 60 people from Cirebon, West Java, staying there to pray every night.

“Only during Ramadan can they stay here for free. We understand that they want to get close to Allah,” he said.

Although the mosque doesn’t provide meals for the visitors’ breakfast or dinner, many street vendors sell food in the yard outside the mosque.

Most people who visit the mosque during the day abandon the no-sleeping rule. If you visit, it is common to see men curled up in corners; some cover their faces, others simply enjoy the breeze. Subandi says the security staff often wake up the dozers and ask them to move on, but it is hard to enforce the rule.

Built on 10 hectares, Istiqlal Mosque is located opposite the Catholic Jakarta Cathedral in Central Jakarta. It took 17 years for construction to be completed on the five-story mosque.

“The mosque was built during the Sukarno era in order to celebrate independence, and he forbade constructors from using wooden materials so that it would last for hundreds of years,” Subandi says.

Although construction started during Sukarno’s era, it was only completed in 1978, when Suharto was president.

“The name Istiqlal in Arabic means independence,” Subandi adds.

The mosque requires about Rp 10 billion ($1 million) per year for maintenance, according to Subandi. That includes electricity, water, cleaning services and salaries for the roughly 300 staff who work there.

Istiqlal is under the jurisdiction of the Ministry of Religious Affairs and the 20 members of the mosque’s board are chosen via a minister’s decree every five years.

Istiqlal is also a place of learning. A private kindergarten has been running within the mosque’s compound for 10 years and is now one of the most highly-regarded kindergartens in Jakarta. Istiqlal also has its own private elementary and junior high schools, with 200 students and 39 teachers. The registration fee is about Rp 7 million.

“We are planning to open a madrasah aaliyah [senior high school] soon,” Subandi says. The schools at Istiqlal follow the state curriculum and examination system.

“The only difference is that we place more emphasis on religious studies, probably around twice as much as regular schools,” Subandi says.

Unlike other mosques, which generally separate men and women with a curtain so that they can’t see each other, Istiqlal separates its worshippers with wooden blocks on wheels.

I find myself enjoying my every minute at Istiqlal, sitting alone, amazed at how spacious the mosque is. It is not every day I get access to a space this big just for praying. In my daily life, I pray in a small room — be it my bedroom, at work or in a mall. The cool breeze makes me want to stay in the mosque for far longer than I really need to.

I decide that my visit to Istiqlal does not necessarily equate to a meaningful religious experience. But it’s a nice change to see people quietly praying or reading, instead of busying themselves with their phones or friends. In a city as intense as Jakarta, it is rare to be able to find a public space in which to sit quietly and reflect on life’s issues. But everyone at Istiqlal Mosque seems to conduct themselves without disturbing one another, as they quietly go about their daily prayers.

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