Angelyn Liem

"A bad durian smells a lot like a person's foot," says Beji, who sells durian in Ben Hil.

My Jakarta: Beji, Durian Seller

It’s never too late to try something new. This year Beji, who had been driving a commercial truck for 17 years, decided to ditch his job behind the wheel and try his hand at the durian trade.

Today, the 40-year-old talks about going from driving a truck to sitting in the bed of one, the business of selling durian in the big city and the perks of selling a fruit that tastes like heaven but smells like hell.

How do you tell if a durian is going to taste good?

The best ones smell good. If it’s bad it won’t emit a pleasant odor, it almost has no smell or it smells a lot like a person’s foot.

Does the shape of a durian have anything to do with its taste?

No. But even when a durian smells good, it sometimes tastes bad. Usually it happens when a durian has been cracked open and sitting around for two days.

Tell us a durian fact and a myth.

Fact: If you eat durian then drink beer, your body gets “hot” and people who have a low tolerance might pass out.

Myth: Washing your hands with your eyes closed to get the durian smell off is ngaco [absolutely not true].

I heard that more Indonesians are killed by falling durians and coconuts than shark attacks. Would you agree?

No, it doesn’t make sense. Not a lot of people walk under the durian trees and there aren’t that many people working underneath the trees.

How do you open up a durian?

From the bottom. To taste it, you open from the top or the side.

Is that knife sharp? Are you scared about losing a thumb?

No. I’m used to it. I know the skills and am not worried about cutting my thumb.

Is it true that to avoid a sore throat after eating durian, you drink water from the husk?

Yes, it’s true. (A customer nods in agreement). You also use the husk to wash the smell off your hands.

Do you like durian? Do you ever find yourself cracking one open here in the back of the truck?

I don’t feel like eating them. I’ve been feeling sick. I used to be fat but I’ve been losing a lot of weight.

Maybe it’s because you smoke so much...

Maybe. I smoke two packs a day. Sometimes more when I’m with friends.

Do you have to pay taxes to sell durians in this area?

Yes. But I won’t tell you about it. It’s a secret. No comment.

Why won’t you tell me?

Because if you know, it’d be embarrassing.

How long have you been selling durian here in Ben Hil?

Only a month or so. It’s my first time in the durian business. I used to be a truck driver.

How do you like it, is it better than driving a truck?

It’s better than being a driver for sure. I still use the truck (patting the quarter panel) to transport the durian though.

How many durians do you sell daily?

Anywhere from 70 to 100.

That’s quite a lot. How much do you sell them for?

The price varies depending on size. The smaller ones are Rp 15,000 ($1.62) for two durians. Then we have the bigger ones that range in price from Rp 10,000 to Rp 30,000.

Where does a guy get a truck-load of durian?

I bought them at Induk market in Kramatjati. But they originally came from Palembang, South Sumatra.

Do you go back there every day to refill your truck?

Yes. We get new ones every day.

What time does business start?

I’m here seven days a week from 11 in the morning to 12 midnight. That’s my life until the durian season is over which is in another two months.

How are the customers here in Ben Hil? Are they nice or do they act like they know everything about durian?

There are customers who taste a sweet durian and then tell me it’s sweet. A lousy customer would say it’s not sweet even if you give them a really good one.

Why? Are they trying to get a better deal?

Sometimes they are. They say it’s not sweet because they want a bigger durian and a cheaper price.

How many durians have you seen a customer eat at once?

Probably three durians.

Do you have any hobbies?

Sitting down with a cup of coffee and hanging out with my buddies.

Do you have a family?

My wife is right here. she makes money selling cigarettes.

What do you like about Jakarta?

It’s easy to make a living, especially when you know people. I started this business because of a friend.

Is there anything about Jakarta you don’t like?

I don’t really care if I like or dislike anything about Jakarta. Like it or dislike it, I have to take it, don’t I?

What’s your favorite day or season in Jakarta?

Dry season. It’s nice to sit outside.

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