Edison Lestari

"There is a risk in standing there managing the traffic for everyone," says Eli.

My Jakarta: Eli, Unofficial Traffic Director

It’s not easy to maneuver through Jakarta, but at some of its busiest intersections you’ll find Pak Ogah. Named for a money-grubbing puppet from an Indonesian show in the ’80s, Pak Ogah ­will stop other vehicles for you in return for a tip.

Here, Pak Eli, who has been unofficially directing traffic for 12 years, breaks down the science of managing some of the worst traffic in the world.

How did you end up becoming a Pak Ogah?

Before the monetary crisis hit Indonesia in 1998, I worked for the Hilton Hotel. I was fired at that time and couldn’t find another job, so I had to start working as a Pak Ogah. Time flies, I’ve been doing this for 12 years now.

Are you a native of Jakarta?

Yes, Jakarta is my hometown. My house is just at the back here. All of the Pak Ogah in this area are local people.

How do you feel when people refer to you as Pak Ogah?

I don’t feel anything. I don’t care what people call me.

How do you feel about your job?

Nothing. I earn my money legally and it’s halal. What’s wrong with that?

What are your work hours like?

We have a system here. We have organized our group into seven shifts. Each shift works for two and a half hours, starting at six in the morning. We work Monday through Friday. We don’t have any schedule for Saturday or Sunday.

You mean there’s no one directing traffic on the weekends?

We work freelance on weekends. Whoever wants to come just comes and works. Usually Pak Jerry [a colleague of Eli’s] works on the weekends. He’s a hard worker. All he thinks about is earning money.

Do you really believe that you help people?

I do. Just look at the traffic outside. If there were no Pak Ogah here, would you have the guts to turn into that lane while cars are traveling along the street that fast? There is a risk in standing there managing the traffic for everyone.

How much money can you make per shift?

Rp 15,000 to Rp 20,000 ($1.60 to $2.15).

What exactly determines how much money you earn on a shift?

Rain. When it’s raining, I still have to work. I get wet, yet people are reluctant to open their windows and give me money. When it is extremely hot, I can earn less as well. People aren’t exactly keen on opening their windows, they want to keep their cars cold.

Then why work if it’s hot or if it’s raining?

Duty is duty. When it’s our shift we have to work. Whether it’s sunny or raining, we can’t skip work. Plus, if I don’t work, I can’t eat.

How do you feel if people don’t give you money?

Work has two sides: amal [charity] and money. If you don’t give me money, I can regard [my work] as amal.

What is the single largest payment that you have ever received from a driver?

It was Rp 50,000 and it was for the same thing I do for everyone. He didn’t get any special treatment.

Some people say that Pak Ogah are preman [street criminals]. What do you think?

I don’t care what anyone thinks of me. One thing is for sure, everyone here maintains a very high code of ethics. We never ask for money. We just hope that you’ll willingly give some money to help us. If you give us a tip, we’ll be grateful but, if you decide not to give us anything, we won’t make trouble.

What are the positives about being one of Jakarta’s Pak Ogah?

The part I value the most is the friendship with the car owners that pass by. I know most of them pretty well. Can you believe that some people pay me on a monthly basis? They give me Rp 20,000 every month instead of a small amount of money each time they pass.

And what are the negative aspects of the job?

Sometimes people get angry with me. In order to enable one car to make a turn, I have to stop oncoming cars. Most people are unhappy when I stop their vehicle. The more luxurious the car, the more impatient the people.

How about the traffic jams?

When it’s heavily congested, it’s very difficult for me to help vehicles make a turn. I stand there barely doing anything. I hate jams. If vehicles aren’t moving, I can’t make money. Remember that my shift is only two and a half hours.

How do you feel about sucking in all the vehicle exhaust fumes all day?

Yeah, the pollution is very bad. I have to wear a mask when I’m working. Once I tried to work without a mask and I ended up with a bad cough.

If you were the governor of Jakarta, what would you do?

That’s totally beyond my imagination. It’s hard for me just to earn a daily living, so I have no dreams about becoming governor. I have three kids now, the oldest one will soon start junior high school. I just hope that he can have a good education and make a good living. I don’t want my kids to follow in my path.

Your View

See Result