Jonathan Stray

‘I carry special food for the spirits so I will not become possessed,' says Santi.

My Jakarta: Santi, Traditional Dancer

We literally turned the car around to talk to Santi when we saw her on the street in her makeup and costume. Santi works as a bus driver’s assistant most days, but her real mission is to educate Indonesians about their own cultural heritage.

She works in a troupe of five dancers, but between performances she’s on the street. Pushing her cart of props and speakers, Santi roams Jakarta barefoot, waiting to be asked to dance.

Why do you dance?

I have a calling to introduce our traditional arts to the people. I’m concerned that our cultural heritage has been stolen by Malaysia. Like the reog Ponorogo . Malaysia claims it, but it’s ours. I want to remind everyone of our local arts.

What dances do you perform?

Kuda lumping and jatilan.

What’s your life like as a street performer?

I was walking around East Jakarta when you found me. I’m finished with West Jakarta and next I’ll go to North Jakarta. I walk around and wait for someone to ask me to dance. When I’m lucky, people call out to me and say, “Hey, where are you from?” I tell them I’m from Java, from Semarang. Then sometimes they ask me to dance. If I get a bit of money from the people who see my dance, that’s good, but if I don’t, that’s OK too. Sometimes I get booked to perform traditional dances. Yesterday I did two jobs in one day. I’m promoting myself by going around.

Is dancing your only job?

Normally I work as a bus driver’s assistant for Mayasari Bakti. I leave for work at 2 p.m. and go back home the next day at 1 a.m. I work two days on and one day off.

How much do you make for a day on the bus?

That depends on the number of passengers. Between Rp 100,000 ($10.60) and Rp 150,000.

Can you explain the makeup and the hair?

The makeup has to suit the theme of the dance. What I’m wearing now is for the jatilan dance. You have to wear this kind of makeup. It represents the spirit. This dance was created at the time of Sunan Kalijaga. At that time, the dancer would fall into a trance from catching the spirits of dead people, and the makeup represents the spirits. The sunan created new dances as a way to spread Islam, by approaching the people through their cultural beliefs.

Are you ever possessed when you dance?

The dances involve spirits, so you can be possessed when you do them. One time there were four of us, and two people were possessed for two hours. That was in Cakung, and another time in Pulogadung for half an hour. If we work as a group, it’s safe to be possessed because we can help each other. But because I’m working alone now, I carry special food for the spirits so I will not become possessed. The spirits eat coal, flowers and pieces of glass, and they drink sewer water.

Is what you are carrying for the spirits to eat?

I’m carrying a package of dried “food” for the spirits that was made in my village. I don’t know what’s in it but it’s wrapped in a white cloth, the kind we use to wrap dead people. It’s not a charm for myself, but an offering for the spirits.

Can you tell us anything about the jatilan dance?

Do you want to see it?

Yes!

[Santi turns on her music and performs for several minutes. Traffic stops and construction workers lean on their shovels to watch. See the video at: www.youtube.com/user/thejakartaglobe]

That was amazing! How long have you been doing this?

I started to learn to dance when I was in the first grade. I taught dancing in my village after I dropped out of school. After my husband ran away, I moved to Jakarta and got the job on the bus. Six months ago, I heard about Malaysia claiming our Indonesian arts, and I started dancing on the streets. I really don’t like to think about how the Malaysians are taking away everything.

Where do you live?

I am part of a group of five people. We live together in Pulogadung, but they are all back in my village now because of Malam Satu Suro , the Javanese New Year. On that night we must use seven different types of flowers to conduct a ritual cleansing of the possessed props that we use in our dances, like the bamboo horses and the kris [dagger].

Do you think you’ll get married again?

No! I’ve been on my own for 19 years! I own a counter selling and repairing cellphones in Pulogadung. I didn’t want all my hard work going to waste so I invested. My customers at the counter sometimes order a performance as well.

How much does it cost to hire your group for the kuda lumping dance?

Rp 400,000 to Rp 500,000 for two hours. We never put a price tag on our performance. Sometimes we do weddings and housewarmings. I’m famous in Pulogadung. Just ask around for the kuda lumping.

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