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For all the criticisms about the history that has been put to the wrecking ball in Singapore’s rush to build bigger and higher — and with more marble and steel — there are still a number of colonial-era buildings that give a glimpse of the island’s past, while continuing to perform useful functions in the modern era.

Thus, the old central post office serves today as the luxurious Fullerton Hotel in its iconic setting along the Singapore River. And right across the Cavenagh Bridge from the hotel’s back door is the Empress Palace Building, which was completed in 1867 and now houses the Asian Civilizations Museum.

Now through the end of June is a fine time to take a trip to Singapore for an opportunity to head down to this central, historic location, to see a grand exhibit at the ACM that will have you dreaming of pretty baubles, the cloying incense of the harem and perfumed dancing girls.

What’s on display is an impressive array of gems, jewelry and other precious items from the Mughal Empire of India that give an understanding of the almost mythological status of the lavish wealth of this Muslim dynasty. At its height in the 17th century, the empire held sway over most of modern day Afghanistan, Bangladesh, India and Pakistan.

“The Mughals, known for monuments such as the Taj Mahal and Agra Fort, were also one of the world’s richest and most powerful empires. We knew that the show would be a visual feast for our visitors,” Nicola Kuok, an assistant curator at the museum, said in an e-mail.

Titled Treasury of the World, the collection was assembled by Kuwait’s Sheikh Nasser Sabah al-Ahmad al-Sabah and his wife. It has been exhibited at some of the world’s best-known museums since 2001, including the Louvre in Paris, the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York and the British Museum in London. Its appearance at the ACM in Singapore is its first showing at an Asian venue.

“We could not miss the opportunity to work with … one of the world’s best collections of Islamic art,” Kuok said.

And stunning it is, especially when considering that many of the items were apparently meant for everyday use by the emperor and his court. Besides jewel-encrusted swords and daggers of every shape and size (with gold inlaid on steel blades), there are cups, serving dishes, spoons, spittoons, turban ornaments, hookah bowls and even a back scratcher, made from hammered gold and silver, nephrite jade, rock crystal and agate. There are also large individual emeralds and rubies inscribed with the names of their successive owners.

According to a press release from the ACM, India under the first six Mughal rulers was a “period in which India enjoyed seemingly inexhaustible wealth and resources …. During this ‘golden’ period the karkhana [imperial workshops] produced luxurious works of art. The Mughals established their own courtly rituals, formal attire and legislation, and many grand architectural monuments, forts and palace complexes were constructed.”

The fact sheet quotes Thomas Roe, the British ambassador from 1615-19 to the court of Jahangir, the fourth Mughul emperor, describing in old fashioned English his first meeting with the ruler: “On his head he wore a rich turbant with a plume of herne tops … on one side hung a ruby unset, as big as a walnut; on the other side a diamond as great; in the middle an emerald like a hart, much bigger. His sash was wreathed about with a chain of great pearl, rubies and diamonds. About his neck he carried a chain of most excellent pearl … at his elbows, armlets set with diamonds; and on his wrists three rows of several sorts. His hand bare, but on almost every finger a ring.”

One of the most impressive pieces is a dagger and scabbard dated to 1615-20, encrusted with 1,685 rubies, 271 natural unpolished diamonds, 62 emeralds and other precious gems, giving a total of 2,393 stones – with 26 missing from their settings. Another piece that emphasizes both the Mughal love of finery and their pious adherence to Islam is a miniature Koran with covers and a case made from nephrite jade and set with rubies and emeralds.

And should one be tempted to think the rulers and their courtiers too soft to be worthy of empire, the Damascus steel of their blades is a reminder that the emperors were backed by technological and military innovations that allowed them to rule and govern an area of diverse and competing peoples that hasn’t been fully unified since.

Looking at the business end of a solid steel battle axe, inlaid with gold though it may be, there is no doubt about the Mughal’s imperial strength and determination.

“It’s a wonderful collection,” said Singaporean Geofrey Yeo, a businessman who was visiting the exhibition with his wife and two children. “I enjoyed it very much because I’m into history and I like to come out for these special exhibitions.”

It’s also good for a family outing, he noted, because the museum provides activities for kids, such as drawing tables and interactive displays where they can try on turbans.

“Visitors have received the exhibition with enthusiasm, and we had over 5,000 visitors in its first week alone,” said Kuok, the assistant curator. “This is one exhibition where you really see visitors poring over the displays and taking their time to examine the exhibits up close.”
Treasury of the World

Jewelled Arts of India in the Age of the Mughals



Special Exhibitions Gallery

Asian Civilizations Museum

1 Empress Place, Singapore

Through June 27 S$8 Adults, S$4 Child

Mondays: 1 p.m. to 7 p.m.

Tuesdays to Sundays: 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. (9 p.m. on Fridays)

For more information:

www.acm.org.sg
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