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While some people sneer at the thought of fashion shopping in Jakarta’s numerous bargain markets, there is no denying that many of us — including yours truly — thrive on digging for cheap items at these veritable gold mines. People looking to purchase something of a wallet-friendly nature should definitely think twice before dismissing Pasar Baru (New Market), Pasar Ular (Snake Market), Pasar Senen, and Taman Puring (Puring Park).

However, as I have learned, shopping on the cheap in Jakarta is not for the faint-hearted — it’s a full contact sport. Markets tend to fill any available space with rows of stores and snack vendors, leaving limited walking (or, for that matter, breathing) space. I have long accepted that sweating with strangers while purchasing Reebok knock-offs is part of the experience. While small parts of these markets are air-conditioned, mostly they’re not. A small sweat towel will come in handy for first-timers. Additionally, a flu mask should be worn for those sensitive to dust, especially if headed to stores located in the hazy depths of these markets. And be warned: I have many a time let out a rather effeminate shriek upon spotting bug-eyed insects and rats hiding within the mounds of clothing.

Still, once you get past all this, perseverance in haggling can get you far. I met with Jan, who with his family runs a second-hand suit and jacket store in Pasar Baru.

“I’ll tell you a secret — we tend to start at three times the actual item price,” he said before adding: “New buyers tend to only dare to ask for a bit of a discount while experienced buyers manage to bring it pretty close to the actual item price.”

Like the other stores next to Jan’s, the clothing ranges in price from Rp 20,000 ($2) to Rp 150,000, and is mostly wearable, despite the layers of accompanying dust. I told him that my first few purchases were vintage suits for Rp 20,000. He laughed and said, “Perhaps you weren’t haggling enough.”

Deni, a bespectacled teen who works at a T-shirt and pants store in Pasar Senen, agrees to divulge information after I “bribe” him by buying two polo shirts.

“You can get a jacket or T-shirt for Rp 5,000 here … we often manage to sell them for Rp 20,000.” He would not reveal the “real” price of the items, but says with a grin, “They are cheap.”

Further probing revealed that most of the clothing in these markets — especially Pasar Senen and Pasar Baru — are imported by ship from Japan or Korea by way of Singapore or Malaysia. They are mostly rejected items with small production gaffes like small tears, or secondhand items. Diana, who works at men’s suit store Mr. Black, says sellers pick up these clothes from Tanjung Priok.

Asong, who owns a store and has a moustache to rival Genghis Khan’s, told me that the clothes were sold by sailors to vendors in large sacks, each containing a random assortment of clothing, ranging from underwear and maternity clothing, to babywear.

He said, “The prices are the same for every bundle, but you never know what you’re going to get.” As a result, the store owners frequently exchange items with one another.

Of course, these markets also contain more conventional stores, mostly located in the visible areas close to the main entrances. Pasar Baru is famous for its fabric stores, where customers can purchase satin, wool and traditional materials such as batik. Many of these stores are run by second or third generation Indian migrants, who are generally considered to have a solid understanding of the local fabric market. Prices range from Rp 90,000 to Rp 300,000 per meter, according to Hasan, who works at one such store.

Customers can also find other budget fashion items. A “leather” belt could go for Rp 20,000, while knock-off designer sunglasses could be yours for the same price. And certainly, Rp 50,000 to Rp 100,000 for a “Dolce and Gabana” handbag is a clear bargain — barring the sometimes obviously B-grade workmanship.

Then there are the shoe stores. In Pasar Baru, Pasar Ular and Taman Puring particularly, these are numerous. Pasar Baru has an endless array of mostly women’s shoes priced from Rp 90,000 to Rp 200,000. These shops are so homogenous in appearance you could be forgiven for going into the same store two (or in my case, three or four) times.

Pasar Ular and Taman Puring, on the other hand, are known for their sneakers and running shoes. International brands like Nike and Reebok are displayed at prices so cheap — Rp 100,000 to Rp 200,000 — they must be knock-offs or rejected items. Acam, one the store owners at Taman Puring, echoed what the other sellers said when asked why many of them cost less than half the market prices. “It’s a secret … but they’re real, not fake.” An examination of the shoes, however, leans toward a tentative verdict of knock-offs.

Taman Puring is also known for its collection of secondhand electronics and musical equipment, including locally made guitars and drums. In the past, I have managed to haggle an opening Rp 300,000 for a branded “Fender” acoustic guitar to a final selling price of Rp 150,000. Acam said many electronic items were sold to the vendors by youngsters desperate for money. He explained, “A lot of them are drug addicts and they need quick money.”

While these markets each have their own specialty — whether it be shoes, clothing, fabric or more — there is no denying that they provide a unique experience for anyone living in Jakarta. As Simeon Gunadi, who I met while he was waiting for his wife in front of a shoe store, said: “It’s like a horrible tasting drug. I always complain to my wife when we’re shopping here, because of the crowds. But often I find myself saying by accident at home, ‘Hey, I need to buy some cheap shirts for work — let’s go to Senen!’ ”

He laughed. “I guess bargain shopping is an addiction.”
Pasar Baru and Pasar Senen

These market are good for clothing, fabric, shoes, jewelry and other accessories, such as belts and sunglasses.

Pasar Ular and Taman Puring

Visit these for “branded” shoes, bags, youth-oriented fashion, cheap music equipment and some electronics.

Most taxi drivers know these areas, but another option would be to use the Busway service. Access the routes and times at www.rutebusway.com



Addresses
Pasar Baru

Jl. H. Samanhudi

Central Jakarta



Pasar Senen

Jl. Pasar Senen Raya

Central Jakarta

Pasar Ular

Jl. Raya Plumpang

North Jakarta



Taman Puring

Jl. Kyai Maja, Kebayoran

South Jakarta