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As the Year of the Dragon draws near, auspicious predictions are in the air for starting new businesses, getting married and having children. Enthusiasm for year 2563 on the Chinese calender can be felt in Jakarta’s hotels and malls, decorated with mei hua (plum blossom flowers), paper lanterns and dragon characters both big and small.

Fashion is also an important expression for new year’s preparations, and almost every boutique and department store in the city is presenting its Chinese New Year collection.

Indonesian fashion designer Sebastian Gunawan is no exception. Sebastian, known as the “Sultan of Glamor” by his clients, showcased his latest collection called “Shanghai Swing” in the grand ballroom of Hotel Mulia Senayan Jakarta on Jan. 11.

Sebastian’s fashion collection was inspired by the long and elegant Chinese gown cheongsam, which was born in Shanghai in the early 1920s.

“Shanghai was growing rapidly at that time,” Sebastian said. “Many foreigners decided to settle down and do business in the city.”

Before that era, Chinese women normally wore the loose-fitting qipao with a high Mandarin collar, flared long sleeves and a loose-fitting bodice.

But the Western style that swept Shanghai in the early 1920s brought with it a modern influence, inspiring regular evening balls among the elite. And Shanghai women, following the fashion of their Western compatriots, started to trim their dresses.

A modern version of qipao w as created with a streamlined silhouette, short bell-shaped sleeves and thigh-high slits. This contemporary version of qipao was later known as cheongsam.

“I imagined these Shanghai ladies wearing their modernized traditional dresses went dancing at the balls,” Sebastian said. “They must have looked very chic.”

Sebastian called cheongsam dresses a marriage between the past and the future, the East and West. The style has since become a part of international fashion. The cheongsam’s streamlined silhouette accentuates women’s curves and highlights their feminine charms, while its stiff Mandarin collar is a symbol of modesty and classic elegance.

“Nowadays, cheongsams are like the little black dresses,” Sebastian said. Black evening dresses are considered a compulsory item in women’s wardrobes. “It’s a classic item that has become so stylish and versatile, that almost every woman with any body shape and hairstyle, can wear in any occasion.”

Sebastian’s “Shanghai Swing” show in Jakarta featured 60 cocktail dresses and evening wear, as a lively repertoire of classic swing jazz ran through the presentation while the models sashayed down the catwalk sporting Sebastian’s cheongsam-inspired collection. “I’ve always loved swing music,” Sebastian said. “It’s always seemed so fun and flirty to me.”

So too were his dresses.

With his exceptional talent, Sebastian has revolutionized the traditional Chinese women’s wear. While maintaining the body-hugging silhouette and Mandarin collar on the dresses, Sebastian has successfully added an element of surprise to the entire collection.

He adorned a midi (knee-length) cheongsam made of sheer lace and pale pink brocade with heart-shaped pleats along the bodice. Floral appliques around the collar and simple ruffles on the skirt added an element of sweet innocence to the dress.

Another cocktail dress was enhanced with cascading pleated folds down the waist, creating a flirty yet elegant impression, which was faintly reminiscent of Dior’s style in the 1960s.

A simple yet classic rendition of the traditional cheongsam was a sleeveless silver silk dress. Tasteful floral embroideries along the bodice and arrays of pearls around the collar embellished the mini dress.

“It’s simply spectacular,” said Jessica Phandinata, one of Sebastian’s loyal clientele who attended the show. “I’m ordering it right away and keeping it for myself.”

Sebastian showed spectacular innovation when he combined classic Chinese and Javanese Peranakan fashion styles in a modest creme brocade cheongsam. Topped with a Javanese Peranakan-styled kebaya in teal brocade, the outfit showcased fresh and fascinating fashion fusion.

“It also represents the blend of different cultures that occurred in Shanghai during the 1920,” Sebastian said.

The second session of the show featured evening cheongsam gowns with elaborate designs and embellishments, and Sebastian’s two-layer long dress looked exceptionally stunning on the catwalk. Another enchanting piece was the baby-pink brocade long dress enhanced with layers of tulle and ribbon along the hemline.

“The upper part of the dress is so Chinese, while the lower part is so Parisian,” said Wanda Ponika, another of Sebastian’s clients who attended the show.

“Since the old days, cheongsam’s have always been recognized as a sexy and glamorous outfit,” Wanda said. “Yet, Seba [Sebastian] has successfully re-created them into something more fun and exciting.”

But the most stunning dress of the show was a crystal-encrusted jade colored long dress, which was embellished with clusters of golden strands shaped like paisleys. “I was utterly stunned,” said model Tracy Trinita. “It was as if the entire dress was covered with falling leaves. Seba once again proved his genius and wowed his guests.”

“To be honest, I’ve never imagined I could create an entire collection in only two months,” Sebastian said, adding that he usually needed at least six months to make a collection and prepare for a show.

“But I’ve been wanting to help our congregation to raise funds to build a church,” he said.

Although Sebastian had qualms about the show at first, the 500 tickets, which were priced between Rp 1 million and Rp 2 million ($110 and $220), sold out within a month.

All proceeds from the ticket sales were donated to construct the Gereja Bethel Indonesia (Bethel Church of Indonesia) Gilgal Pantai Indah Kapuk, in North Jakarta.

“Seba’s shows have always been awe-inspiring and entertaining,” actress Tracy Trinita said. “I’m glad I could help.”

For more information of Sebastian Gunawan’s collections, visit sebastiangunawan.com.