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Singapore’s Standing Sushi Bar made a name for itself with a catchy gimmick that quickly got food fans to take note. Sure, that particular contrivance — which you can probably decipher from the restaurant’s name — was a simple one, but it offered a novel identity that distinguished it in a saturated sushi dining market.

Once it had people’s attention, there was little need to retain the novelty, and as it (not so surprisingly) turned out, people generally prefer to sit when eating. Hence at Standing Sushi Bar, no one really stands at all.

That change to the business model probably makes more sense now that it has opened a branch in the La Piazza section of the gigantic Kelapa Gading Mall in North Jakarta. Not many Indonesians would take kindly to having to stand up to dine after traversing the mall’s sprawling expanse.

And so we somewhat ironically sat at the Standing Sushi Bar, but not before having to undergo a rather prolonged wait as the restaurant’s hostess tried to handle the growing waiting list. Noticeably, there was a certain haphazardness in the table management that felt forgivable in the context of it being a new establishment.

Mixing the usual Japanese offerings with fusion dishes such as pasta, the restaurant has a price range that agrees with its mostly younger adult market. Bright, colorful lights and designs give the place the ambience of a hang-out pad.

University student Briana Setiawan said the restaurant’s name intrigued her, but she was “pleasantly” surprised that she didn’t really have to stand for her sushi feast.

“The atmosphere is casual and friendly, which I like. The food is relatively affordable and rather delicious,” she said.

Taste-wise, the meal itself was slightly better than similarly mid-priced Japanese restaurants, with a slice of authenticity that is often lost among the ever-growing number of Japanese diners in the city. The plate of sashimi held a fresh tang that worked beautifully to start the meal.

The sushi variety was pleasant but did not offer much to differentiate it from other equivalent establishments. Instead, the restaurant’s strength is its non-sushi dishes.

The grilled salmon head offered a tinge of sweetness amidst a flurry of delicate meat. Mixed with its partnering radish, it formed a crisp tasting dish that was hard to beat. The yakitori, or skewered dish, was another standout, while the sunagimo (grilled chicken gizzard), tori kanzo (grilled chicken liver), and enoki maki (enoki mushrooms) were also scrumptious.

A plate of fried mushrooms stuffed with crushed salmon served alongside a bowl of Japanese-spiced mayonnaise was another delectable offering. At once sweet, mildly salty and hot, it was a fusion-like dish that worked wonders.

I do wish the restaurant would at least offer a glimpse of its origins, if with just a modest “standing” section. That gripe aside, Standing Sushi Bar is still a surprise in its affordable and welcome flavors.

Standing Sushi Bar
La Piazza, Kelapa Gading Mall
1st Floor , Unit 3B1
Kelapa Gading Permai
North Jakarta 14240
www.indonesia.standingsushibar.com