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There is something primal, bordering on savage, about steak. Even when it comes with classic preparation and elegant surroundings, I find I’m barely able to resist attacking it with gusto.

Thus, it was with high expectations that I attended the invitation for a media luncheon at The Steak House at the Four Seasons Hotel, in Jakarta. Since it was established in 1995, the restaurant has undergone several conceptual transformations — from an American-styled steak house with servers dressed as cowboys to semi fine dining with steaks and fusion dishes on the menu. The only thing that remains the same is the excellent quality of food and drink.

The restaurant, which features polished wood panels and furniture, a sleek open kitchen and Aboriginal artwork on the walls, introduced its new menu on Jan. 27. Presented in a single page for easy reading, the menu is comprised of appetizers, soups, cuts of steak and side dishes.

“We offer more steaks on the menu and less of the other dishes. It’s a steak house in every sense of the word,” executive chef Vindex Tengker said.

Signature cuts at The Steak House, including Australian wagyu beef and Rangers Valley 300-day-old grain-fed beef, prepared like all steaks on their wood-burning grill, are still on the menu.

The wagyu is widely popular because of its marbling and tenderness, while the Rangers Valley cut is juicy and well-textured, yet firmer than the wagyu. New selections of quality meats are also available, including the dry-aged US Meyer beef, US prime beef and the Aurora lamb from Tasmania.

“All beef comes from pure bred Black Angus cows that are naturally raised on organic farms,” Vindex said. The menu also features non-loin cuts — tough and muscled parts of the cow such as the cheeks, rumps and flanks.

“It requires more knowledge and expertise to prepare them,” Vindex said. “Those secondary cuts are usually good for wet cooking, such as soups and stews. But, some actually have tender parts that we can make into a steak, with a little know-how.”

The steaks are grilled over wood from rambutan and jackfruit trees. “They give them a special aroma and more flavor,” Vindex said. All of the meat dishes come with a complimentary vegetable of the day, grilled or steamed.

“With so many varieties of beef, guests may explore and experience the Steak House’s variety of meats from different countries, cuts and styles. It brings a more valuable experience to our guests,” Vindex said.

Our experience started with a platter of Black Angus beef carpaccio, thinly sliced and drizzled with truffle oil. Served with green salad and Parmesan cheese shavings, the pinkish, almost translucent raw meat looked appealing. Each slice glided softly into my mouth, melted on my tongue and invaded my taste buds with its heady flavors.

The crab cakes were the ideal accompaniment. Perfectly browned on the outside, they were soft and buttery within. The side dish, served with a creamy Remoulade sauce and spicy coleslaw, was very tasty.

Next, we moved on to beef cheeks, presented in a steaming hot oval casserole dish.

“The beef cheeks have been left to simmer in red wine sauce for three hours to make them tender and sweet,” Vindex said. Cubes of blue cheese gnocchi accompanied the rich meat stew.

Next we were presented with the Tasmanian lamb chops served on an immaculate oblong platter. Lightly seared on the side, the meat, which had a marbled texture, was soft and succulent. The fresh and tangy mint jelly sauce perfectly enhanced the taste of this rather heavy dish.

The Steak House offers an assortment of rock salts — the Montosco Sale Nero Hawaiian black and red and the Himalayan pink — to season your cut. While the Hawaiian black and red salt was relatively mild, the Himalayan pink salt added more of a zing to the steak.

Last but not least, we were presented with the prime-grade hanger steak, served on skewers and flanked by onions and green paprika. The prime hanger is cut from the tender and juicy meat between the rib and the loin. Marinated in Argentinean chimichurri sauce, the meat remained soft and savory and the piquant green sauce only enhanced the flavor.

When our palate grew dull and leathery from all the rich flavors of the meats and their accompanying sauces, it was only right to enliven it with some fresh desserts. The sweet and sour mango banana yoghurt served with a piece of tuile, a french almond cookie, proved to be the perfect finale to our luncheon. Indeed, all’s well that ends well.
The Steak House

Four Seasons Hotel Jakarta

Jl. HR Rasuna Said, Jakarta

Tel: 021 252 3456