Hera Diani

Hera Diani doing yoga at Borobudur Temple first thing in the morning, to avoid the crowds of people that visit the ninth-century Buddhist shrine. (Photo: Primatmojo Djanoe, JG)

Having a Divine Time With Yoga

Doing yoga outside can be less restrictive, as long as the air is clean and it is quiet. (Photos: Primatmojo Djanoe, JG)

With a flashlight in hand and yoga mat on my shoulder, I walked alone down a small path leading to Borobudur Temple in Magelang, Central Java. It was 5:10 a.m. on a Friday in May, and the area was dark and eerily quiet, which made me wonder whether it was a good idea to visit the temple this early in the morning.

I was visiting the ninth-century Buddhist temple so early in the hope that I could avoid large groups of people. The Unesco world heritage site is Indonesia’s single most popular tourist attraction, receiving up to 3 million visitors a year. The temple attracts people seeking a spiritual experience and those on pilgrimage. Visitors also celebrate the annual Buddhist holiday of Vesak at the magnificent complex, which overlooks Mount Merapi volcano.

The temple officially opens at 6 a.m., but you can get a “Borobodur Sunrise” pass from Manohara Hotel, which is located inside the temple complex. A hotel staff member can show you the path to the temple, which is several hundred meters away, and can provide you with a small flashlight for the excursion.

As I crept along, two security guards came to check my pass, but were indifferent when I asked them about where people usually do yoga. “In the back,” one of them said in a deadpan voice.

I climbed the stairs to the very top of the temple, which stretches about 40 meters high, and was greeted by several stupa and a statue of Buddha. I felt like I had climbed to the top of the world and I was ready to enjoy the peaceful panorama, but was disappointed to find several tourists were already there, waiting for the sunrise.

Grumbly and already sweaty, I looked for a quieter spot. And after a quick wander, I found a better place one level down from the top.

It was a sort of balcony on the side of the temple, facing east, with a small forest on the right. Lovely.

A few rounds of sun salutations later, my worries had disappeared and I dissolved into the blissful surroundings of the grand and atmospheric temple.

The idea of doing yoga at Borobudur Temple had come from an article in an in-flight magazine. Having practiced yoga for more than a year, I was immensely excited as I imagined how exotic it would be to practice the ancient tradition, in an equally ancient and magnificent place.

Devi Asmarani, who teaches yoga at Jakartadoyoga studio in Central Jakarta, said that doing yoga outdoors — provided the air is clean, the scenery is picturesque and there is not much distraction — will generate a different kind of feel and energy.

“You’ll feel a lot more refreshed because the air has not been recirculating. You’ll also feel a lot freer, because there are no walls surrounding you,” Devi said. “But remember to check the weather first.”

Yoga is basically a discipline of going into ourselves, she said, of getting in touch with the divinity — whether that is an inner or outer divinity, or purely metaphorical.

“So, when you do it in a place known to be sacred or that is revered to have some kind of spiritual presence or history, it is inevitable that you’ll pick some sort of spiritual energy or at least experience from that moment,” Devi said.

Borobudur still has a strong sacred atmosphere, she said, not just because of its size and glory, but also because people still meditate and worship there.

“It is a site where people basically enter a state of submission, so that alone should keep a presence of spiritual energy,” Devi said.

Make sure to bring a mat that is thick enough and won’t slip, as the contour of the temple floor is uneven and the dawn dew created a layer of moisture on the mat.

I did a round of Ashtanga yoga, which involves a dynamic combination of positions. Standing poses were fine and smooth, but it was difficult to do poses that require lying down, like the shoulder stand and fish pose, so I skipped them.

Doing yoga outdoors with such natural and lush surroundings really made a difference. The air was clear and refreshing, instantly re-energizing me.

In between poses, I saw the sky change from dark blue to a warmer hue with splashes of yellow. On my right was a lush, green forest enveloped in light fog.

The only downside were the tourists.

Halfway through my yoga routine, as the official opening hour arrived, a few tourists passed by and looked flummoxed at the sight of me. During one pose, a little girl stood next to me and yelled, “I wanna go home!”

That was my cue to leave. I folded my mat and took a meditative stroll around the temple, soaking up more of its energy.

The morning had left me content, peaceful and energized. It was a hundred times better than my usual dose of yoga at home. The endorphins rushed through me all day and ensured I had a contented weekend as well.

Your View

See Result