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The biggest season in Indonesia is not spring/summer, autumn/winter or even dry/rainy,” Indonesian fashion designer Itang Yunasz said during a press conference in The Hall, Senayan City, South Jakarta, recently. “It’s the season of Ramadan and Idul Fitri.”

And to welcome the biggest season this year, the senior fashion designer showcased the latest collection of his eponymously-named Itang Yunasz line after a 15-year hiatus.

“I was busy taking care of my second line,” he said. “But now it’s time for me to focus on my first line.”

Itang made his debut by winning the second prize in the Lomba Perancang Muda Femina (Femina Young Fashion Designer Contest) in 1981.

Since then, the graduate of Esmod Jakarta fashion school has expanded his career and become one of the country’s top fashion designers.

Itang started to focus on fashion aimed at devout Muslims in 2000, when his daughter, Najla Kamila, was born.

“My wife decided to wear a hijab after she was born,” he said. “That became a turning point for me, and I also decided to become a Muslim fashion designer.”

Today, the 52-year-old designer’s clientele includes Indonesia’s creme de la creme, as well as customers in Malaysia, Singapore and the Middle East.

Besides his main line, Itang also designs his secondary lines, Tatum by Itang Yunasz and Preview by Itang Yunasz, which are retailed in lower-end shopping centers in Jakarta such as Blok A’s Tanah Abang and ITC Kuningan malls.

“Some people say ‘Why would Itang Yunasz enter Tanah Abang (market)?’ ” he said with a smile.

“I’d say, ‘Why not? That’s where the bigger market is.’ Besides, as a fashion designer it’s always been my dream to dress not only the upper classes, but also everyone.”

His latest high-end collection is called Heaven Sent.

“Everything that comes from Heaven is excellent,” he said. “My collection offers a new dimension, which is quite different from the usual trapezium or straight line cut (of Muslim fashion). It makes a woman look more beautiful.”

The show presented 88 sets of women’s and 45 sets of men’s attire included in the Itang Yunasz 2010/2011 collection.

The runway show was quite dramatic. The guests were ushered into their seats in a completely darkened hall on the eighth floor of Senayan City.

A fleeting scent of incense wafted in the air. Tall black veils hung between the seats and the catwalk.

After the guests were seated, the loudspeakers blared with the sound of beating drums and a heartfelt call to prayer.

As it died down, the black veils were dropped, revealing 10 beautiful ladies in gleaming white tunics, their heads covered in mukena (long veils worn during prayers).

The audience broke into applause.

“The mukena collection made it quite big in Malaysia last year,” he said.

The satin silk veils were beautiful, combining French lace and delicate hand embroideries, intricately layered to create an elegant, cascading silhouette.

The next session, Delightful, presented Muslim fashion in a relaxed and effortless Bohemian style.

The models wore long loose tops with empire cuts and high-neck collars paired with long pants. Chic vintage turbans, as seen on Paris streets in the 1920s, crowned the model’s heads.

Skinny pants, which were combined with layered long tunics featuring asymmetrical cuts, also presented a very stylish, modern and dynamic look.

The male models looked bold in their tunics, embellished with silver studs on the chest, and pants with low, baggy crotches.

“Younger people wear Muslim attire these days,” Itang said. “These clothes retain their youthful look and accommodate their energetic and dynamic lifestyles.”

The color palette varied from rich golden hues to acid green and navy blue.

“They’re the colors of the desert,” Itang said. “And they’re in line with today’s trend that has shifted toward the Middle East.

“Fashion is universal,” he added. “Muslim wear should refer to the international trends, in terms of colors, fabric and silhouette, and adjust them to Islamic rules of clothing.”

The next session, Wealth, featured long flowing tunics and abayas, robe-like dresses.

Itang’s abayas were stunning. Designed like a cocoon, they presented a modern streamlined silhouette with tapered sleeves adorned with golden and silvery coins. The backsides were cinched and ruffled to maintain their graceful shape.

His blue kaftan was also an audience favorite. Its simple look was transformed with an empire cut and a bold floral applique on the garment’s chest.

The tunics, made of silk chiffon, were adorned with exquisite draperies, as well as sparkling beads and sequins.

Tribal and animal prints on the light and semi-transparent material of some of these tunics also helped to camouflage the body contours of the female models, an important fashion consideration for many religious Muslims.

The male models looked stylish in their three-piece outfits, which combined long loose tunics, metal-studded vests and formal jackets. Some of these vests and jackets were made of brocade, an unusual choice for men’s attire.

“These clothes are not only for Muslims,” Itang said. “I also have a lot of non-Muslim customers. They’re worn as resort- or cruise-wear during the holiday seasons.”

A shrill cry marked the start of the final session. A model sashayed on stage in an elegant white gown that was entirely covered with fine embroideries, pearls and crystals.

Her graceful look was enhanced with a fold of silk satin draped along her chest and extended to the back of her gown. Her thin, long veil billowed gracefully as she walked.

“There are a lot new alternatives, which are chic and fashionable, for Muslim wear in the show,” Itang said.

After the show, the fashion designer also launched his second book, “Heaven Sent,” with pictures of his latest collection. His first book, “Spiritual Beauty,” was released in March 2006.