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Often overshadowed by Siem Reap and the majestic Angkor Wat complex, Cambodia’s capital, Phnom Penh, is a charming city currently undergoing a cultural and economic metamorphosis that makes it well worth a visit.

Cambodia, torn apart by the Khmer Rouge regime in the 1970s, has worked hard to preserve what is left of its culture and way of life. But the profusion of foreign money and development means the city is changing every day. Visitors can witness the dynamic struggle between history and modernity play out across the city on a daily basis.

It may not have the flash and urbanity of other Asian capitals, but Phnom Penh has a rare mix of culture and ease that is sure to endear the city to a wide variety of visitors.

Scratching the Surface

It’s likely that many visitors associate Cambodia and Phnom Penh with the Khmer Rouge regime. One of the most popular tourist activities is the “genocide tour,” a two-for-one trip that consists of visits to the Choeung Ek killing fields 14 kilometers outside of the city, and the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, a former detention and interrogation center known for horrific torture, which is located in central Phnom Penh.

All tuk-tuk drivers know where these sites are, and a round trip to Choeung Ek should cost about $10, while a trip to Tuol Sleng should cost no more than $3 (Cambodia uses a mix of the dollar and the local currency, the riel).

Another iconic stop in Phnom Penh is the Russian Market, more familiar to tuk-tuks and motodops (motorcycle taxis) as Psar Toul Tom Poung. The sprawling, hectic and steaming market is a hodge-podge of everything from souvenirs to groceries and tailors. While exploring, be on the lookout for the Cambodian Space Project’s shop, which sells reproductions of vintage Cambodian movie posters. Also try the modestly named Best Ice Coffee in Phnom Penh stand in the central canteen area for maybe not the best ice coffee (it’s still up for debate), but a solid pick-me-up that comes with a shot of extra coffee.

Phnom Penh also boasts a royal palace and a national art museum, but if you are traveling through Asia, you might consider skipping these sites if your stay in the city is short. They will be quite modest compared to similar offerings in other Asian countries.

Happy Hours

Phnom Penh is awash with extremely generous happy hour deals, though drinks are already quite affordable. One of the best happy hours is at the Elephant Bar at the Raffles Hotel (also known as Le Royal), which offers a 50 percent discount on its extensive list of cocktails, beer and spirits. And be sure to enjoy a side of history with your well-assembled drinks ­— when the Khmer Rouge entered Phnom Penh, foreign correspondents sought refuge at the hotel, and stayed there until the city fell. Famous guests include Jacqueline Kennedy, writer W. Somerset Maugham and former French President Charles De Gaulle.

Other drinking options include the Foreign Correspondents Club and Chow. Both are located on rooftops near the riverside for wonderful sunset views over the Tonle Sap River.

Although it doesn’t offer a discount, stop by Cantina on the riverside for a cold beer, Tex-Mex and some interesting stories. The FCC might be up the street, but Cantina is the real foreign correspondents club. A longstanding watering hole for expat journalists in the country, you’ll get the real scoop there.

Leisure Rules

If you have been traveling for awhile, a stop in Phnom Penh can recharge your batteries. Spas and legit massage parlors are plentiful, but prices and quality can run the gamut.

The U and Me chain offers round-the-clock, high-quality massages and can be found on the riverside or in the Boeng Keng Kang neighborhood. Another great spa option is Aziadee Tea Spa and Beauty next to the Goldiana Hotel. Aziadee not only has a selection of different types of massages, but also offers natural spa treatments.

Phnom Penh also has a great concentration of boutique hotels that feature beautiful pools. Many hotels will let non-guests lounge poolside (often offering wi-fi) for around $5.

Kingdom of Water

Phnom Penh’s riverside provides lots of wonderful sights and places of interest. Take a stroll along the wide walkways in the evening to see a Cambodian slice-of-life at its most relaxed.

The north of the riverside offers boats for rent, and for as little as $20 you can hire a vessel to take out on the river for your own private party. Watching the sunset over the water is one of the most fun and relaxing things to do in Phnom Penh. Most of the time you don’t even have to reserve in advance, but it’s always a good idea if you are inviting people to your party.

Up All Night

Phnom Penh has both healthy and unhealthy nightlife concentrated in pockets around the city, especially down the bar-lined Street 51 and “Golden Street,” near Wat Langka, which is popular with backpackers and young expats.

Golden Street is filled with decent budget accommodation, restaurants and bars. Notable spots include Equinox, which frequently has live music upstairs. Or try Elsewhere, a bar with a long cocktail list and two pools where you can take a dip if the Phnom Penh heat gets to be too much.

As the night progresses, take the party to Street 51. Lined with bars, clubs and fast-food options, the street is busy every night of the week. The longstanding Zeppelin Cafe, also known as Rock Bar, stands out and endears itself with a quirky and cool ode to rock ’n’ roll. Most nights, Taiwanese bar-owner Jun is stationed at the back, surrounded by vinyl and playing classic rock favorites.

The drinks are cheap, the dumplings are some of the best in town and Jun takes requests — but absolutely no disco.

The nightclubs Pontoon and Heart of Darkness are also located on Street 51. Pontoon attracts a mostly younger crowd and has hosted international acts. The Heart of Darkness is one of the oldest and best-known clubs in the city, although its reputation leans toward the shady, but security has been significantly stepped up.

Safety Concerns

Although Cambodians are friendly and exploring the city can be extremely easy (everyone speaks English and Phnom Penh is small enough that exploring isn’t a hassle), there are some things to keep in mind.

Bag snatchings are very common. Always be aware of your surroundings and mindful of your belongings. Be especially careful if you are carrying a bag while using a motodop. There are many stories about people being dragged off motorbikes while getting their bags snatched.

Tuk-tuk drivers and motodops will constantly pester you while you are in the city, and will sometimes say they know your destination when they really don’t. The best way is to find the wat, or temple, or a big landmark close to your destination, get dropped off there and then walk the rest of the way.

Do not do drugs in Cambodia. You never know what you are actually getting and it can end with deadly serious consequences.