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It was seven in the morning when five friends and I were supposed to leave for the bay. But the rain had been pouring nonstop since the night before, so we decided to wait for another hour.

We killed time by playing cards and sipping mugs of coffee in front of our rented bungalow. We preferred not to listen to music on our phones to conserve the batteries. Once they ran out of power, we would have to wait until dawn to charge them, which was when the bungalow owner switched on the generator, the only power supply on Kiluan Island. An hour later, though, the rain continued to pound.

Wasting no more time, we put on our life vests, clutched our cameras and jumped onto a small traditional motor boat called a jukung. We rented two jukungs, since each boat can accommodate only three passengers.

Whatever it took, we were determined to see wild dolphins in their native habitat on our trip to Kiluan Bay, which lies 160 kilometers away from Lampung’s Bakauheni Seaport.

Leaving the island for the bay at that point, however, would prove to be a challenge, especially for those who get seasick easily. Choppy waters and cold winds threatened our departure.

It took about 15 minutes to reach the outer part of the bay, as the boatman circled several times. All we could see was grey water and rocky islands in the distance. Then our skipper took us to the other side of the bay.

For 30 minutes, the boatman tried to ease our boredom by telling jokes. “You know that dolphins don’t like pleasant scents, so it’s a good thing you guys didn’t shower before we left,” said Khairil Anwar, 42, who also runs the bungalow, his family business. We laughed.

But as the objects of our fascination failed to appear, one of my friends desperately tried to make sounds that might attract the dolphins.

A few minutes later, a slippery-looking grey creature made a big splash in the front of our boat.

“Was that it?” I shouted to Khairil. He nodded. We turned on our cameras, and this time we weren’t disappointed.

About a dozen dolphins appeared on the right side of our boat, splashing wildly. The reward was worth the wait and the long ride. We were thrilled when one of the dolphins started swimming with graceful, dance-like moves.

“Good gracious, the dolphins do exist!” another friend shouted excitedly.
We watched the dolphins frolick for about 30 minutes, capturing every moment on camera before finally motoring away.

Khairil said more and more tourists, foreign and domestic, have been visiting the Kiluan region during the past few years specifically to see dolphins.

“About 20 years ago, only foreigners visited this area to see the dolphins. The facilities were so poor, and the roads were not paved properly. The only way you could  reach this place was by motorbike,” Khairil said.

Thanks to the Internet, however, word of the dolphins of Kiluan has spread quickly, including information on accommodations, boat rentals and what to do during a visit.

We decided to make the most of our trip. Before we went to Kiluan, we stopped at Klapa Rapat Beach, then took a 20-minute boat trip to Kelagian Island and its small, white-sand beach and lagoon.

We also had a swim at Kelagian, and for a beginner like me, the island is ideal for snorkeling because the water is placid and shallow, but the sea life is abundant and spectacular.

Electric blue starfish, multi-colored fish coral, lobsters, anemone and even sea turtles greeted me as I dove in.

Kiluan, Khairil said, is an eco-tourism destination that is a must in Indonesia because it is one of two areas where wild dolphins can be observed, the other being Lovina Beach in Bali.

Khairil said Kiluan was an ideal place for dolphins because it provided what the animals needed to live and breed.

“There are lots of small islands in and around Kiluan Bay where straits lie. It is there that different currents meet, bringing nutrients and food, and creating a suitable atmosphere for marine species, such as coral reefs, fish, plankton and dolphins, to live,” Khairil said.

Human activities, however, threaten dolphins’ existence. These include  hunting and bomb fishing.

“Bomb fishing is strictly prohibited since it destroys the coral reefs, which is  home to most local species. And dolphin hunting obviously threatens the dolphins’ existence itself,” Khairil said.

“If we don’t protect their habitat, who will?”