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Cheongdo, South Korea. Two bulls enter the oval arena, bellowing loudly, and exchange momentary glares. Then they clash head- to-head — and there’s not a matador in sight.

Centuries after the tradition began, Korean bullfighting still draws frenzied crowds who don’t seem to miss the bloodshed of the Spanish version.

“The bulls fight each other. Whereas the bullfighter is always the winner in the Spanish version, our winner is undisclosed until the end,” Cheongdo County Mayor Lee Joong-geun said this week as the annual bullfighting festival began.

“It is a fair and clean sport. Bullfighting is part of Koreans’ life, as it was mine when I was young and owned a bull.”

Every March, just before the farming season begins, bull owners flock to the competition at Cheongdo, 265 kilometers southeast of Seoul.

Taking part this year were 132 bulls from six different classes that made it to the quarterfinals in other competitions, and about 10,000 spectators packed the stadium for the opening day on Wednesday.

“I came all the way from Daegu. We are excited, and my sons have even been practicing the bullfight at home all week long,” said Elizabeth Kim, 33, an American who married a Korean.

The contest begins when two owners dressed in traditional red and blue lead their bulls into the center of the ring. When the referee blows his whistle, owners use a rope attached to a nose ring to get their beasts — weighing about three-quarters of a ton — to clash head-to-head. They lock horns and attempt to push each other backward.

There is no time limit for each bout.

When one bull is exhausted, it backs off and pulls its horns away. The winner roams the arena, seemingly savoring the victory, while the loser slowly walks out.

Bulls are classified into six weight categories, from 821 kilograms or more down to 600-625 kg. An Ul class bull above 660 kg — named Haebyung (Marine) was still feisty, steaming from its nostrils when it returned to the barn after defeating Papillon, which had been this year’s favorite for the championship.

“When I saw our opponent, I never thought Haebyung would win, because he is only four years old, but he went through it so well and I am just glad,” said owner Ha Suk-goo, 56.

The winner of the five-day festival that ends on Sunday collects 6 million won ($5,30), and the runner-up 5 million.

The fighting bulls are not a special breed. Experts identify young beasts with potential — usually those with short front legs, a thick neck and small eyes.

Owners then train and feed them special delicacies such as mudfish to build up their stamina. Most fighting bulls reach their peak at age six or seven, but there are exceptions. Once they are too old to fight, they either return to the farm or are put down if too damaged by their bouts — but never butchered for beef.

Organizers say it is rare for a bull to suffer serious injuries.

Mayor Lee noted: “Once the bull surrenders, no owner will push it to the limit and will accept the result. Such a spirit is definitely something for us to learn.”



Agence France-Presse