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Coal Town Fires Up Tourism
Report Tasa Nugraza Barley | June 29, 2010

Sawahlunto Sawahlunto's cultural center is starting to be appreciated by more and more tourists. (Photo courtesy of Sawahlunto government)
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As the world’s largest archipelago with more than 17,000 islands, Indonesia has the natural beauty and diversity to attract tourists. But poor planning and almost nonexistent marketing campaigns have relegated what would otherwise be a paradise for visitors to the sidelines.

One city in West Sumatra, however, is trying to capitalize on its past as it looks to transform itself into a tourism hot spot. The results so far, while not overwhelming, are encouraging.

“Sawahlunto can be a new tourism destination in Indonesia,” said Maya Ayu Permata Sari, fourth runner-up at Indonesia’s Miss Tourism 2009 pageant.

Maya, a Sawahlunto native whose parents still live there, said she was happy her hometown was attracting more visitors.

Mayor Amran Nur said that in 2005, only 15,000 tourists visited Sawahlunto. But the numbers have been improving, with the city welcoming 570,000 tourists in 2009.

Most of these visitors are from nearby cities such as Buktittinggi and Padang, as well as from provinces such as North Sumatra and Riau.

“We are confident that we can attract even more people in the coming years,” Amran said.

Located about 90 kilometers from West Sumatra’s capital, Padang, Sawahlunto is a 27,344-hectare city with a population of about 56,000.

Even though this small city is blessed with natural beauty and relatively cool weather, Sawahlunto has long been more famous for coal, something that traditionally does not attract tourists.

In 1867, the Dutch geologist WH de Greve discovered that Sawahlunto was rich in coal. A few years after, in 1891, the Dutch government began to build coal mines in the city.

But the mining industry has lost its luster. Coal mining activities slowed dramatically between 2000 and 2004, and the government decided to turn to tourism to help boost the local economy.

Using the slogan “Wisata Tambang yang Berbudaya” (“Cultural Mining Tourism”), Sawahlunto is capitalizing on its long history of coal mining to set itself apart from other destinations.

Part of this effort involves offering coal-related activities that allow visitors to walk in miners’ shoes.

One of the first places that visitors should check out is the Lubang Mbah Suro (Tunnel of Mbah Suro) coal museum, which is located in the heart of the city.

There, visitors can borrow boots and a helmet and experience what it is like to work as a coal miner, all for an admission price of just Rp 7,500 (85 cents).

Visitors are able to explore a deep and dark tunnel to experience what life is like for miners underground.

To experience other aspects of a coal miner’s life and that of his family, visit Museum Gudang Ransum, which was formerly used as a mess hall for thousands of miners.

Here, visitors can explore the kitchen, dining hall and supply room to get an understanding of how the miners lived.

As coal was so closely intertwined with the lives of the miners, they didn’t use wood or oil for cooking, but long pipes linked to big pans that transferred the steam created by burning coal.

Using the massive pans, the cooks, mostly women and children, prepared food for about 2,000 coal workers each day.

Australian Rachel Tosolini, who visited Sawahlunto in early June, said the museums in the area offered a lot of interesting information and exhibits.

“I even think that the museums in Sawahlunto are probably the best ones that I’ve been to in Indonesia,” she said.

If going to museums is not your thing, you can enjoy the mountain scenery with a trip on board the famed steam locomotive aptly nicknamed Mak Itam (The Black Lady).

This German locomotive was used to pull coal cars from Sawahlunto to Teluk Bayur port in Padang. For Rp 50,000 per person, visitors can hop aboard the train and enjoy a 30-minute ride around the city.

On board, visitors can experience the city up close and personal, seeing where residents live and how they go about their daily activities. The train also goes through the 900-meter-long Lubang Kalam tunnel, which was built in 1894.

“Your visit isn’t complete without a trip on Mak Itam,” Maya said.

Aside from coal-themed attractions, there is lots more for visitors to do and experience. One popular attraction is Waterboom Muaro Kalaban, which opened in January 2007 and is billed as the first recreational water park in West Sumatra.

During holidays and other peak periods, the water park welcomes an estimated 4,000 people a day.

And the city will soon have another family-friendly attraction, the Sawahlunto Dream Land theme park, which is currently under construction.

Sitting on 20 hectares of land, the park is expected to be the largest in West Sumatra.

Mayor Amran said the city government was working to expand its tourism program, with its focus on the history of coal mining in the area combined with Sawahlunto’s rich culture.

“The tourism industry has provided the people a new opportunity to enhance their livelihoods,” Arman said.

Tosolini said Sawahlunto had enormous potential to become one of the hottest tourist destinations in the country.

“It’s so unique compared to all the other tourist destinations in Indonesia,” she said.