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As a native of Cirebon, West Java, I was never fond of the city. Fifteen years ago, it was stifling, hot and humid, lacking in modern facilities and kid-friendly activities.

Yet, like an abstract painting by Wassily Kandinsky, I recently realized that Cirebon is a place worth revisiting and seeing from a different perspective to fully appreciate its beauty.

From July 16 to 18, the KKS Melati (Melati Social Group) based in Ampera, South Jakarta, shuttled 48 underprivileged children from six shelters in the capital to give them an in-depth look at Cirebon’s cultural heritage sites.

“Kids today know more about modern songs and dances, but almost nothing about their own culture,” said Nurul, project manager of KKS Melati. “It’s very important for them to learn about their roots to respect and take pride in themselves.”

To be eligible for the trip, the children had to pass a test on Cirebon’s culture and history.

“In Cirebon, the Sundanese, Javanese, Arab and Chinese mix and create a unique cultural assimilation, unlike any other part of the country,” Nurul said. “In the visit, these kids can experience it for themselves and see how people from many different backgrounds live and work together in peace.”

The city, the fourth largest along the northern coast of Java after Jakarta, Surabaya and Semarang, has always been an important port and strategic gateway to the island.

There are many versions of its historic past. But according to an old manuscript written in the 17th century by Prince Kararangen, grandson of Sultan Syarif Hidayatullah of Cirebon, the city was founded in the 14th century as a small port town called Muara Jati, part of the Hindu Pajajaran Kingdom.

Because of its strategic location, the port grew into a busy international harbor heavily trafficked by merchants from China, the Middle East, Cambodia and India.

The harbor master at that time, Ki Gedeng Alang-Alang, had the port’s residential area moved five kilometers south of the harbor, where the quiet fishing town grew to become a city populated by people from many different nationalities.

Muara Jati then became known as Caruban (melting pot), and then as Cirebon, where people of different countries still mingle and live together to this day.

The children’s first stop was at Cirebon’s oldest palace, Keraton Kasepuhan, which was built in 1430 by Prince Cakrabuana, son of King Siliwangi of the Pajajaran Kingdom.

The palace was handed over to the prince’s daughter, Ratu Ayu Pakungwati. She married Syarif, also known as Sunan Gunung Jati, one of the nine disciples who spread Islamic teachings in Java.

After Syarif was proclaimed ruler of the city, the palace became an Islamic stronghold. However, a red brick candi bentar , the topless split gateway typical of Hindu temples, still stands at the entrance.

Nearby, there was a small stone monument of lingga yoni , also typical of Hindu temples. Lingga, the stone shaft, represents men, while yoni, a stone slab with a hollow space in its surface, represents women.

“It’s a symbol of Adam and Eve,” our guide Satu said. “The monument shows that men and women need each other and co-exist in this world.

Inside the gates, the lawns were well-manicured with old Banyan trees shading the walkways. At the center is the Taman Bunderan Dewan Daru (Dewan Daru Roundabout Park) with a pair of white lions symbolic of King Siliwangi.

On one side of the park is a museum that showcases the palace’s antique collection, with displays of ancient kris, javelins, bows and arrows, as well as gamelan sets given to the sultan by neighboring countries.

Across from the museum is the Gedong Singa Barong (Singa Barong Building) that houses the palace’s old chariots. Among them is a chariot sculpted for Syarif’s grandson in 1549.

At the head of the chariot is Prabangsa, a mythical creature that combines an elephant, dragon and bouraq , a fabled beast that resembles a winged horse.

“It’s a symbol of friendship between Cirebon, China, India and the Middle Eastern countries,” Satu said.

He pointed out that the 461-year-old chariot was designed with a clever suspension system that prevented it from swaying when it traveled on a rocky path.

The wheels of the chariot were also bent slightly sideways to prevent mud from spraying the passengers when it rained.

“Four white buffaloes pulled the chariot,” Satu said.

“The sultan used to ride on this chariot to parade around the city on the first of Muharam [Islamic New Year].” Because of its old age, however, the chariot hasn’t been used since 1942.

Suhadi, a 13-year-old with the tour group, could not stop shaking his head as he stood before the chariot.

“How was it possible?” he said. “Our ancestors must be very clever [to understand such technology] at the time.”

From Keraton Kasepuhan, we went to Taman Sari Gua Sunyaragi (Sunyaragi Garden) built by Prince Kararangen in 1703.

“Sunya means silent and ragi means body,” our guide Udin said. “The garden was a retreat for the prince and his troops to pray and practice martial arts.”

An eerie aura of tranquility prevailed over the 1.5 hectare garden. The hilly area was covered with lush green grass and dotted with old traditional Javanese buildings with narrow peaked roofs and man-made caves.

The facade of the caves was black rock, sculpted to resemble clouds in the traditional Cirebonese style known mega mendung (cloudy skies), while inside, narrow brick tunnels connected the different passageways.

The children eagerly explored the cave system. “It’s like treasure hunting,” 12-year-old Ayu Ningsih said with a giggle.

One of the caves, Gua Peteng (Dark Cave), was originally used to test the supernatural powers of the prince’s troops.

In order to reach the cave, we all had to step, one by one, on the stone tiles across a lake. As they reached the last tile, the girls had to be very careful in navigating their way in order not to touch a disfigured stone statue at the cave’s entrance.

“It’s the [statue of] Perawan Sunting [Unmarried Virgin],” Udin said. “Legend has it that any virgin that touches her will remain unmarried all her life.”

Another large cave was used as the main dining hall, where the prince entertained his guests.

At the back of the cave were secret tunnels said to lead directly to China and Saudi Arabia in the olden days.

“Cirebon is the gate of secrets,” said Hafizoh, another escort and winner of a local beauty pageant. “The city retains a lot of interesting stories, myths and legends. It’s our heritage. I’m so proud to be Cirebonese.”

But the highlight of the trip was later that evening, when we visited Kacirebonan Palace.

In 1801, Sultan Muhammad Khairuddin was exiled to Ambon because of his anti-colonial agitating. In the wake of his expulsion, rebellions broke out in the city, causing problems for the colonial government.

In 1808, the sultan was brought back to Cirebon, but installed in a new palace, Kacirebonan. His descendants continue to live there to this day.

The ninth sultan, Abdul Ghani Natadiningrat, welcomed our group to the palace.

“These dhuafa [less fortunate] children are also our children,” the sultan said. “We embrace them and hope that we can teach them something about our culture and tradition in this visit.”

Performers at the palace then showcased the Cirebonese traditional arts of tari topeng (mask dance), wayang uwong (puppet dance) and turun sintren (the dance of the descending angel).

The children watched the show with great interest. “I didn’t even blink,” Dika, 14, said afterward.

“The [dance] movements were very graceful and the music was strong and dynamic. I think we can combine the movements with the dances that we already know and make it into something new.”

The son of a fisherman in Kamal Muara, North Jakarta, Dika said he was also an avid student of traditional music and dances. An instructor in the Sumbangsih shelter home in Jakarta teaches dance to Dika and his friends.

He said that the trip to Cirebon had inspired him with new passions and possibilities for the future.

Just like Hafizoh, the trip made me proud to be born Cirebonese.